Check your gas supply. Steve. Sure enough this time the igniter lit up and lit the furnace on its own. Inspecting the Heat Exchanger for Deadly Holes. I turned the power off at the breaker. I’m having this same problem with a Goodman furnace. Steve. What am I missing here. If I reset the furnace, the blower motor runs fine, and it attempts to run, but the ignitor doesn’t heat up. I would suggest checking all safety control with a volt meter and pressing down on the reset buttons (if equipped) on every rollout switch. If the ignitor is staying on then you probably have a stuck relay on the control board. It was trying to start over and over, but almost never would ignite (I say “almost” because occasionally it actually it would – maybe once in 30 to 40 attempts). This sounds like a control board problem, but you say that you replaced the board and it did not solve the problem. I hope you can get the problem found and fixed soon! Hi Mark! If it is and you’re not receiving gas, you will need to call a plumber to address the issue. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. You can also check the fuse/breaker to make sure the furnace breaker has not been tripped. Your gas- or oil-burning furnace must receive fuel to work. More than likely the ignitor relay on your control board is bad. The limit as I am sure you know is a safety control that should only be used to shut the furnace off if your furnace over-heats like in that case that a blower motor failed. Your furnace man might need to adjust the pressure on the furnace’s gas valve. Most of the time you can hear a click in the control board when the ignitor should start glowing. You would turn the furnace on so the thermostat is calling for heat and set your voltmeter to “Volts AC” Touch one terminal of the rollout switch with one of the meter probes and the other meter probe to a good furnace ground like on the body of the furnace. I have checked the tank and there is lots of fuel. Hi Victor! Since the ignitor will not glow this could be a safety control problem like a limit, rollout or pressure switch. I do not know what the ohms reading should be on your ignitor but many of the silicon nitride ignitors ohn out with lower than expected ohms. I have gas everywhere else in the house with no problem. If your furnace is going off on limit then I would suggest adjusting the gas pressure down a little until you get proper smooth ignition with the furnace not going off on limit. I had similar issues to the previous commenters. Have issue today with ignitor on a Rheem criterion. If you are not then I would suggest looking to make sure that all the rollouts are closed. Please help me. 4. Please email me at the arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look part up. Sometimes rollouts can be hidden like on the bottom of the blower housing. I can not send pictures through our comments page. If your furnace is going off on limit I would suggest making sure that the blower motor capacitor is in good condition, make sure that your evaporator AC coil is not stopped up on the underside, make sure that your gas valve pressure is adjusted properly to produce the furnace recommended temperature rise. If you are not getting 110 to the ignitor then I would think that you have a control board problem and might need a new control board. If your pilot light will not come on after cleaning the furnace, check your gas or propane supply as a final step to find out why your furnace will not start. You might need a new control board. If the burners ignite and heat, the problem isn’t the gas supply. Turn the power by on to your furnace. Noticed ignitor begins to glow for a few seconds and stops and about a minute later attempts to get warm again. Another thought would be to make sure that if your thermostat has batteries, make sure the batteries are in good condition. Your email address will not be published. Steve, New flame rod, new ignitor, new temperature switch, new pressure switch, cycle fan and lines clean no leaks will not ignite the hot surface ignitor??? After replacing the pressure switch everything worked fine. Any suggestions you may have to get the power back on my furnace? Sorry, I am sure you know that. At least I eliminated the fuse factor. Arnold’s Service Company, Inc. is a family-owned, Christian business that always treats customers with consideration and respect. Great forum you have here and I can appreciate the help and advice you give out. If you are getting 24 volts to the gas valve and it is not opening up to allow gas to flow then you probably have a bad gas valve. If you would like for me to look up parts…please send your furnace’s model number and serial number to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look up the parts. Still have no real idea what it could be . The problem of not shutting off could be anything from a short in the thermostat wires to a bad gas valve so its best to let a qualified technician troubleshoot and repair. Having a furnace that is too big for your house can also be a problem. If you would like for me to look up and see what ignitor that your furnace manufacturer recommends then please send me your furnace’s model number and I will try to look it up in one of our parts programs. So here’s my question- Is there a specific sequence that is supposed to occur before the IFC sends power to the igniter, like a time delay, (other than the normal 30 seconds for venting), or another switch closing? My house is cold and have 4 kids. Required fields are marked *. Inducer motor comes on, valve clicks, igniter does not glow, then shuts down for few seconds, only to try again. Steve, My gas furnace is not getting gas. Steve, I replaced my ignitor and it did not glow so I replaced my board as well and still nothing. We sell furnace parts, air conditioning parts, AprilAire filters, EZ Flex filters, and many other HVAC parts and supplies at affordable prices. So sorry to hear you are having this trouble and a run around between the propane company and furnace man. The problem could be coming from the control board or any of the safety controls (pressure switch, limit or rollout switch). Hi Steve, Thank you for responding. Yes, if the limit or any of your rollout switches are open then the open switches will not allow the ignitor to glow. Place your order today! The original furnace ignitor part calls for the IGN00145 80 volt ignitor with control board part number: CNT04678 superseded to CNT05160 and then Kit15816. When I woke up this morning I noticed that the t-stat was below the heat temp. What steps should I take to properly diagnose the no power issue? Make sure the furnace is on. Why would i not be getting the vacuum to close the pressure switch? You should have between 110 and 125 volts AC. Can I put a clamp-on meter to wires from valve to ignitor? It had no power at that time too. Pretty sure it isn’t the rollout or pressure switch, since the furnace will run normally if I light it manually. A furnace doesn't heat all the air in the house -- it just heats the air that the ducts bring to it. Steve, I have a furnace. You help would be greatly appreciated. You could also have a control board problem that is not allowing current to the limit. It will not hurt anything to leave the combustion air vent pipe loose until it warms up. If your furnace uses an electronic ignition and it does not ignite, the igniter or control board may be bad. Not wanting to freeze for the night until I could get someone to look at it, I decided to light the furnace manually. I would make sure you are getting 24 volts through the limit, rollouts and pressure switch if you have not already tested these safety controls. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. If any of the safety controls like the limit, rollouts or pressure switch is open then the ignitor will not glow. Steve Arnold, https://arnoldserv.wpengine.com, Your email address will not be published. Below are pictures to help you identify the difference in a flame sensor and a hot surface ignitor. I would think that 10.2-ohm reading would mean that the ignitor is OK. We have a post about the problem on the IGN00145 ignitors going out so often on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/trane-ign00145-ignitor-going-often-problem/ I hope this helps you out. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. “G5UH” does not show any Lennox furnace models in our Lennox parts program. If the flame sensor does not detect a flame, the co... ntrol board will shut off voltage to the gas valve to prevent the furnace from heating. If the power going to the ignitor is a constant 120 volts when it is supposed to be glowing and the ignitor is going off and on then this is an ignitor problem. The limit should really never be used unless your furnace has a part failure like the blower motor stops, a dirty filter, or if the underside of the AC evaporator coil is stopped up and not allowing air to be expelled through the furnace. Ignitor will not glow. This sounds more like a control board problem with the ignitor relay on the control board at fault. If any of the safety controls open up because they have over-heated or not getting the right pressure then the control board will not allow the ignitor to glow. Thanks so much for your kind words! If you would like for me to look up parts or give you the control board part number then please send me your furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. Thank You Cosimo Roarco Have a nice day, Sorry to hear that your ignitor is going out often. I am getting a fault 34. Step 7: Check the Gas. I hope you can get your furnace fixed and going soon! If all these check out OK then I would think that your control board could be at fault. This sounds like you have a high voltage issue. Please make sure you do not touch the gray glass part of the ignitor. If your ignitor tests OK with an ohm meter, then you could have a furnace control board problem or you could have an open limit or rollout switch problem. The furnace stopped after 2 weeks. After the cleaning job, I reinstalled everything back but then the furnace and the thermostat had lost power. After starting the furnace up after the ignitor replacement I see and hear the ignitor not making good contact with some control on the furnace making some weird noises. You can bypass the thermostat by turning the power off to the furnace then joining the R and W wires together with tape or twist them together. A dirty or faulty pressure switch, which monitors the burner to detect a flame, can also cause the furnace not to produce heat. I can jump the switch and it has no power to the switch, all the fans remain on, (blowing cold air). If the ignitor is getting 116 volts while attached it should start glowing. Today, furnaces that have between 80 to 90 percent efficiency ratings heat air to just about 100 degrees. My furnace is not getting fuel. Everything appears fine. Often times the reason air does not get to your furnace’s igniter is because it is restricted. You can troubleshoot your Trane gas furnace by opening and closing the blower door until the small flashing red light comes back on to indicate the connection is fully sealed. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts AC between at least one wire that goes into your limit switch to a good ground on the furnace body. With older furnaces, almost half the heat was lost before making it into the house. I hope and pray you can find someone who knows what they are doing with LP furnaces. I hope you find and fix the problem soon! Steve. Filters were changed every month, coil and pan are near spotless. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope this helps you out. I have a Goodman Furnace that a technician recently replaced the control board on 2 weeks ago. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. I reset the breaker and the furnaces kicked back on but now it seems like the igniter is bad again. If you do have blink lights on your control board the board should tell you what the problem might be by reading the blink code. I really do not have any idea what could be wrong without testing parts with a voltmeter. I’ll also check the light to get the error code. I need to get a volt meter, but will I get any reading at all while there is still no power to the furnace ckt board? When you’re involved with more than one home improvement project at a time, this can happen, especially if you’re in the middle of a kitchen remodeling project. The 3amp fuse looked fine, didn’t see any burn mark on it when I took it out to check. What do you think is wrong. Thanks for asking this question. Step 8: Furnace Won’t Turn On – Check Your Ignition Sensor. Thank you for all of this information. Combustion requires oxygen, so if your furnace isn’t getting the air it needs, it will suck air down the flue, which doesn’t allow dangerous exhaust fumes to travel up the flue. Just do not leave the exhaust vent pipe off. You would need to test with a voltmeter to see where you stop getting the 24 volts. Steve. Most modern gas furnaces have an electronic pilot igniter coupled with a flame sensor rather than a physical pilot light. Steve. I hope the following helps: We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. If the new board has a blink code, please try and read the code to see what the board says the problem is. If your thermostat has batteries make sure they are good. I have not found a furnace that has stumped me yet. If the ignitor will not glow then I would suggest that you check to make sure all your safety controls are closed like the rollouts, limit switch and pressure switch. I would make sure that you are getting 24 volts AC between W and C (common) when your thermostat is calling for heat to be ON. A boiler is a bit more complex than a forced air furnace in that it has more parts, valves, and controls. If all the safety controls check out OK (closed) then you probably have a bad ignitor relay on the control board and you will need a new control board. So glad you found and fixed the problem! The question is why did your furnace breaker go out. An over-sized heater can heat the air too fast, raising the temperature near the thermostat faster than that in the rest of the house. Now you are starting to get … Yes, even gas furnaces you electricity. You might have a bad Smart Valve or a bad flame rod assembly. If your furnace is going off on limit you might have an airflow problem like a dirty filter, dirty blower, slow blower motor (might need a new capacitor) stopped up evaporator coil or too much gas pressure. Possible causes: The furnace could need resetting. Thanks much, Steve! Now my heat wont turn up at all. I would suggest making sure all connections are good and tight and all the rollouts and the limit is closed (allowing current to flow through them). You should get 24 to 28 volts AC between each of the two terminals on the rollout or limit to ground. Steve, I believe this one has got you stumped. If you are not getting 24 volts to the gas valve then you could have a bad control board or and open limit or rollout switch. I rechecked the manual and I noticed I was looking at the wrong model when I saw the reference to the SiNi HSI; that was for an older version of that model. My repair man cannot find the problem – the board is reporting a fault when the furnace is in the failed state but replacing the board did not correct the problem. The blower but no lighting takes place Rheem furnace that has stumped me yet fired up minute! 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